In fact, he almost bypassed the islands completely, visiting only Virgin Gorda, one of the most beautiful islands in the group, after which he named the area "The Islands of 11,000 Virgins'. But although beautiful, the BVIs were not easy to live on, as most were without water. In time they were embraced by pirates and buccaneers such as Edward Teach (aka Blackbeard),

Jost Van Dyke, and Sir Francis Drake who sailed many times down the islands; dividing channel, which now bears his name (as does the new local brew, Drake's Gold Beer) There is very little crime and drink is relatively inexpensive. For the yachting fanatic the main attractions are the constant easterly trade winds, together with the many protected anchorages available within a relatively short distance of one another, a good feature just in case the breeze gets out of hand (which it occasionally does during the hurricane season, July to October).

There are no thermoclines. From time to time an occasional strong current may affect some of the sites, but most are just wind-related surface currents. The best dives are within 30 minutes of the dive bases and the sites are scattered throughout the territory, no particular area commands the top spots. The BVIs lie on a shallow plateau, part of the Puerto Rico Plateau, which also includes Puerto Rico and the US. The island of Anegada, 48km North of Tortola, is the only coral cay in the group; all the others are volcanic, rising steeply in some places to a height of just over 300m.

Most islands are rocky with sub-tropical vegetation, and many are fringed by secluded, white, sandy beaches to the north and west.
Rocky shores break the surf of the islands southern Caribbean side. There are no steep drop-offs, but shallow walls under 30m, which are part of the natural drop of reef, from the surface to the sandy bottom, are common. Offshore, large coral conglomerates form caves, ledges and high rising coral. Basically, shallowwater diving is the name of the game, with the occasional deeper site.

Maximum reef depth is around 23-24m. Large pelagics such as mantas and sharks are rare, but do appear occasionally. What you will find , though, is around 60 species of coral, and more than 178 species of fish.

The Most popular dive sites:

The RMS Rhone
Lying in three distinct sections, this 310-ft twinmasted steamer is regarded as a classic by wreck divers. She lies at 9-24m with her stern and impressive single, bronze propeller commanding the shallower waters. Her forward section, with foremast and classic bowsprit, lies on its side on the deeper slopes. Marine life is abundant, in particular inside the hollow bow structure, a cavelike area that transforms day into night when you are inside, but with a safe exit always visible. At night the Rhone comes to life when the polyps in the coral growth that envelops her hull open up to feed in the safety of darkness. Octopus, eels, shrimp, rays and squid are all common visitors as well as permanent residents. Try diving in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the high-season boats. Noon can also be a quiet time.

Angel Reef, Norman Island
With its shallow canyons rising to the surface, and rock-and-coral bottom with a grassy bed bordering the reef, this site is a crossroads for species from different habitats. Nudibranchs, blennies, jawfish, soldierfish and an assortment of angelfish are common sights, as well as octopus, the occasional snake eel and southern and eagle rays.

Painted Walls, Dead Chest Island
With five finger-canyons covered in colourful sponges and soft corals, this shallow (l2m maximum) site is visually satisfying, as the light plays through the arches and crevices. I have been chased here by octopus and have found the wellcamouflaged frogfish. Squid patrol this area daily

barracudas, groupers, boobies and pelicans that usually continues until the last of the million or so small sardine-like fish are devoured, a process that may take three to four weeks.

held on Mosquito Island. High arches and deep, cutting canyons create a maze for exploration. It is also one of the few places where I have consistently found the elusive clingfish. Look under the many smooth, surf-polished rocks at the entrances of the northside caves.

Rhone Reef
The first time I dived here I thought it would be just another 'tourist trap' creation, a reef close to the world-renowned wreck. Well, I was wrong. Time and time again this site, located about 45m to the south of Black Rock, Salt Island and just behind the Rhone's propeller, has proved to be one of the most beautiful locations for macro and close-up wide-angle photography Literally hundreds of fish specimens congregate here in large numbers, including drums, high hats, angelfish, copper sweepers and more.

The Marie L and Blue Chromis Reef, Cooper Island
This scuttled 90-ft freighter lies on the edge of a 275m sandbar where small sharks patrol a mass of iridescent blue chromis. Visibility here usually exceeds 30m. Grass eel colonies blanket the sandy bottom surrounding the wreck.